Sewing 101: Stay Stitching Facing and Patchwork

I learn all kinds of sewing tricks and techniques from my mom.  When I was making the Rebecca Dress, she taught me that stay stitching can be so helpful.  Since then I’ve found myself using it quite a bit, and have discovered it as a valuable technique for patchwork, so I wanted to share it with you!

What is stay stitching?  It’s a straight stitch through one layer of fabric.  It is most often used for curves and necklines to help them keep their shape.  However, it has some other helpful uses as well, and that is what I’d like to show you today.

First, it is great for facings that are going to be hemmed or turned under in some way.  For the Rebecca Dress the facing is on the outside of the dress and has a lovely curved detail, but carefully turning that 1/4″ under while maintaining the details can be very difficult.

So, naturally, I called my mom to see how I should finish it without it looking strange or uneven.  She said to stitch 1/4″ from the edge then use it as a pressing guide!  Wow, what an amazing technique.  I used it again on Baby Stella’s dresses and Norah’s Easter Dress, so I thought I’d show you some pictures:

First, stitch 1/4″ (or whatever measurement you’d like to turn under, for Norah’s dress I used 3/8″).

Then turn the edge under and press carefully along the stitching line, I like to use a little Best Press to make it nice and crisp.

Apply your facing as directed. While this goes without saying, note that on Baby Stella’s dress and Norah’s dress the facing encloses the side seam and arm seams too, make sure to stitch with the hem already folded.

Then stitch your facing down close to the edge and you’re set.  If the facing is on the front of the garment, carefully remove the stay stitching.

Now, stay stitching has a very useful purpose when it comes to patchwork too.  I like to make little patchwork things, but often find that if they’re turned on the patchwork seams, the stitching comes out.  While back stitching can be a remedy, sometimes the items are cut to size after making the patchwork, so stay stitching is perfect here too!  I find this particularly useful for things like baby bibs, pincushions, and needle books!

After stitching and trimming the patchwork, but before assembling the item, stitch 1/4″ {or whatever seam allowance you’ll be using} from the edge where you’ll leave the item open for turning.

When you leave the opening for turning, stitch a couple of stitches into the stay stitching on either edge.  Then turn your item, you’ll find that the seams will not come apart past the stay stitching!

When you sew the opening closed, make sure to conceal the stay stitching, or, if it shows, simply remove it.

I don’t know why I didn’t think of this sooner {maybe I’m the last person to start using this technique}, but is sure has helped my little patchwork accessories turn out easier and more finished, especially when using string piecing!

P.S. The finished pincushion is from the Princess & the Pea Pincushion tutorial for Riley Blake Cutting Corners College!  Normally I would leave my opening on the bottom and not on the patchwork top, but since I had the patchwork made up, I thought it was easier to show this example than make something else!