Zig Zag vs. Serging
I’ve been doing a bit of garment sewing, so it seemed like a great opportunity to share a few pictures on finishing raw edges. I’ve left these collages large, so you should be able to click on them and see much more close up.
When making garments, there are usually seams that will not be enclosed, so, to prevent the raw edge from fraying continually, a finishing stitch is used. Zig zag stitches are generally on even the most basic sewing machines {I’ve yet to see one without!}. Serging, on the other hand, is done by a machine specifically designed to finish seams, and usually has 3-5 threads, and also trims the seam allowance at the same time.
So, let’s look at a seam finished with a zig zag. After stitching my seam line, I used the multi-stitch zig zag {but any zig zag stitch will work} and stitched near the stitching line, you can see it in this picture:
I prefer to stitch my zig zag close to the stitching line, leaving fabric on the edge to be trimmed. I find that if I try to sew right next to the edge, the zig zag gets all bunched and it doesn’t really do what I want it to. Instead, I then trim the edge of the fabric close to the zig zag line, without cutting into it:
This leaves a nice finish and not a lot of room for fraying. I actually threw this selvage edge that I finished into the wash, just to see what kind of fraying would happen, and I was very pleased with the result.
I purposely pulled the threads out so they would look more obvious. The final picture shows a zig zag finish next to a serged edge {I am sorry the serging isn’t more obvious, I didn’t want to change the threads, so the white kind of blends in}.
I used the zig zag to finish Norah’s birthday dress, because I generally don’t want to pull out the serger for just a little bit. However, I will be finishing the dress I’m making for myself with the serger, mostly because I don’t want to trim the seams. But, when making something small, I prefer to zig zag because it is easier than getting the serger set up.
Any questions on zig zag vs. serging? Or any tips on seam finishing you’d like to share?
Thanks so much for this post! I’m about to make my first garment (pajama pants for my brother as a Christmas present) so I’m looking for all the seam finishing tips I can get right now.
I don’t have a serger or the fancy zigzag stitch on my machine, so I often resort to two rows of stitching and a pinked edge on curves and french seams on any straight seams. I prefer the look of french seams inside my dresses, etc. anyway, so I don’t mind the extra effort.
I have a beautiful overcast stitch on my very inexpensive Brother CS600i and it works beautifully to overcast and “seal” my seams. I use it on everything that might possibly fray.
Thank you so much Jennie. This is such good information!
Thanks for this, Jennie. I actually have had a serger for the past two years and have yet to plug it in. Oops.
I never knew that’s what that symbol was for. I know the zig zag and use it often, but I didn’t realize that the dotted lines on the symbols meant multi-stitch. Feeling kind of dumb right now, but glad to be enlightened. 🙂
This is very useful information for me. I really want to start sewing children’s clothing and a few things for me. I’m clueless about sewing unless it’s a quilt or a pouch!
Thank you for sharing! I haven’t made any garments because I don’t have a serger….but now that I see how to use the zig zag stiich, maybe I’ll give it a try.
Since I am clueless in the garment arena, how far away do you sew the straight stitch? Like I said..I’m clueless
Stefanie
Hi Stephanie,
I usually stitch mine about 1/8″ from the stitching line. But reallly, as close as you’re comfortable without stitching into the seam!
I was really pleased to see this Jennie as I had no idea how close to sew zigzag to the edge, so I’ve never risked it. I will now – thank you
I have always wondered if it was worth a serger. There are so many stitches on a machine. But I have to say I love the way the serger finishes the edges. Smiles..Renee
Thank you for sharing such useful tips, there is always something new to learn!
Wishing you a wonderful weekend.
Helen x
I like all the tips you share! Thank you! I have a serger and need to spend some quality time with it so we can be more simpatico. XOXO
My mom taught me to sew clothes eons ago. Didn’t like it then…probably wouldn’t like it now either. We didn’t have a serger. I don’t remember every zig zagging the edges. Maybe that is why the seam allowances were bigger.
Thanks so much for that tip! I’ll have to give it a try!
Thank you so much for this post!! It’s exactly what I needed to read!